Preparation for Trapping Feed the cats every day, if possible, at the same time. Never feed tuna fish or similar special treats, as this will be used later for bait in the trapping process.
Items needed for trapping Platform operated humane trap Towel or newspaper to line the trap floor Blanket or sheet large enough to cover the entire trap Tuna fish or sardines, (intended for human consumption, not cat food) Can opener and spoon/fork Regular food and water for feeding the remainder of the colony after the trapping session
Trapping Do not do the regular feeding. Planning your trapping session at, or shortly after, the regular feeding time is often effective. Some hunger will make the bait more attractive. Place a towel or folded newspapers on the floor of the trap to line the platform (release mechanism) and the mesh floor of the trap. Place the bait on a plastic lid or something comparable and place it at the end furthest from the trap entry. Make a trail of small mounds of the bait that lead into the trap. (You can drop bits of tuna through the mesh top of the trap onto the floor below.) Set the trap and wait. Do not leave visual range, but watch at a distance that is not disturbing to the cats. Never leave a trap unattended. Covering all but the door opening to the trap often gets the best results, (make sure that the cover will not obstruct the door closing). If the cats remain nervous and will not enter the trap, you may try uncovering the back end, or leaving the entire trap uncovered. As soon as the cat is trapped, quickly cover the entire trap with the blanket or sheet to calm and quiet the cat. Careful not to tip the trap or to allow it to be overturned, as the door may come open. Don't forget to feed the other cats before you leave the site with the trap.
Release In good weather most males and females can be released the following day. As feral cats experience stress while in captivity, they should not be held longer than necessary. In extreme cold weather or if there have been any surgical complications they may need to be kept for a few days before release. When you're ready to release at the same location as where trapped, face the carrier towards an area recognizable to the cat. Uncover the carrier and point carrier so door opens into a hole in a fence, shelter, bushes, etc. so cat will not "fly" around and possibly run into traffic. Release the cat gently, giving him or her time to come out without shaking or agitation which causes extra stress. Back up and quietly wait for them to exit.
Why you should never leave a trap unattended Unattended trapped cats can injure themselves trying to escape from the trap. Quickly cover the trap. They may also be injured or traumatized by dogs, raccoons, coyotes or other animals who may be drawn to the smell of food. There is not only the possibility of cruel humans injuring a trapped cat. Someone may also release the cat, which will make more difficult to re-trap the now trap-shy cat. Traps may be stolen or smashed.
| What to do if the cat won't go into the trap Vary the way that you are covering the trap. Some cats pefer to be covered, but some will go in if they can see out the far end. Other cats prefer to be uncovered, but you'll want to be near by to cover the trap quickly to calm the trapped cat. The day before trapping, only give half of the regular amount of food, to ensure their eagerness the day of trapping. Try using different bait. Sardines, tuna fish in oil and deli turkey meat are favorites. If possible, heating the bait will increase the odor and attract the cat. Rinsing down the trap with extremely HOT water to ensure there are no other odors (urine, spray etc.) from previous animals that may be intimidating to the cat. Do not use any chemicals, this can also cause an overwhelming odor to the cats senses. The size of a trap is very important. The larger the cat, the larger the trap. Prior to putting a towel/newspaper floor lining in, try rubbing them in the dirt in the surrounding area, for a sense of security not only for visual, but for smell. IF, AND ONLY IF, you are trapping in a secure area (your own backyard, inside a building, etc.), you can rig the trap to have both ends open for a few days with the food in the center of the trap. On the day of trapping, simply set as required for trapping. If these tips fail, as a last resort you may want to try a drop trap. Please see the TNR Videos section on how to build a drop trap.
Trapping a group of kittens To get multiple kittens at once, or a mom with kittens, you can use a conventional trap like a pull trap. Preferably a larger sized trap to have room for multiple kittens. Bait the trap as usual, the only difference is that you might want to use a little more food. This will keep the original kittens in longer and give the cautious kittens time to get a sense of safety before entering. Tie a length of sturdy twine, or like kind, to a stick that is the appropriate height to prop the trap door open. The twine must be long enough for you to operate the trap from a distance, preferably from inside of a car, where your presence is least likely to be noticed. Watch patiently until several kittens are inside and pull the twine to close the door. Cover trap quickly. It may be worthwhile to do a test run to see that you have the stick positioned in such a way that trap will close properly. What to watch out for . . . IF a kitten is leaving the trap, let it go. It now knows the trap is a safe place. Setting the trap off may only scare and more possibly injure the kitten. Most likely the kitten will get out anyways, in which it will NEVER get near another trap. ALSO, if the trap is set in the sight of the remaining kittens, they WILL learn from this.
The BEST tip of all . . . Patience.
Building shelters With so many types and styles, check out these websites to find one that is useful to you. From plastic containers . . . http://www.spayandstay.org/wintershelter.htm http://www.coolest-cat-care.com/outdoor-cat-shelter.html http://www.indyferal.org/Literature/out_cat_shelter.pdf http://urbancatleague.org/Shelters.html From wood . . . http://www.wvcats.com/outdoorcathouses.html
Over the top shelters . . . http://habitathaven.com/shelters-cat-enclosure.html
One piece of advice, not seen on these, have an escape hole. You can also buy small igloo type shelters, cut hole on opposite side of entry and line with 3" or 4" of straw. Mat it down a bit. If you're trying to hide it in bushes in a populated area, spraypaint it camouflage. |
